Il Rimedio (4443 Spruce Street) adds something new to the West Philly scene. The menu offers luxe flavors and a slightly more sophisticated approach to brunch. The food is delicious and carefully prepared, and although the dark wood and white tablecloths bring a more formal feel to the room, the service is friendly and not pretentious in the least.

Two friends and I (with a two-year-old in tow) visited Il Rimedio last week for the Saturday brunch. We each ordered an item from one of three menu categories: Benedicts, Crepes, and Grains. The house smoked trout, grilled asparagus, and wild mushroom hollandaise sauce Benedict ($10) featured perfectly poached eggs anchored by a generous portion of firm, subtly smoked yet fresh-tasting fish. The wild mushroom hollandaise sauce was smooth and infused with flavor. The same sauce accompanied the crepes with egg whites, sauteed spinach, pecorino cheese and turkey bacon. The Parisian among us noted the authenticity of the crepes, which, like the poached eggs, require a close eye and a deft touch.

Although the mascarpone polenta ($6) looked good, from the Grains section we ordered the stuffed Italian bread French toast with whipped molasses cream cheese filling, black currant maple syrup, and honey walnut compound butter ($10). Being skeptical of the concept of “stuffed” french toast, and not a big fan of a sugary breakfast, I expected something beyond my control. Instead I was happy to find that the sweetness of the syrup and molasses was nicely balanced by the salty nut butter and the tangy sesame/sourdough flavor of the seeded Italian bread. Each of the dishes came with a side of herbed new potato hash, which was fine but not remarkable. The side of pork belly ($4) was a disappointment, because I expected something crispier. On this point I defer to those more familiar with the preparation of pork bellies. Next time I’ll opt for bacon ($4) instead.

Il Rimedio is a grown-up place featuring adult tastes, although children might appreciate the crepes with Nutella, fresh strawberries, mascarpone, vanilla bean anglaise, and mint coulis ($8), or the Greek yogurt, berries, and honey ($6). While the staff was certainly pleasant and family-friendly, the acoustics and the set-up are not. Chef Dan Freeman is happy to adapt dishes to meet different dietary requirements, and encourages you to make a request if something doesn’t meet your needs. At this early stage of the business — only a month in — some changes may occur, but the quality of the food and the skill of the chef will no doubt establish Il Rimedio as a strong option for a festive morning meal. We have yet to try dinner, but based on the brunch, our hopes are high.

– Jen

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