The Baltimore Avenue restaurant scene expanded this summer when the Mediterranean restaurant/cafe Aksum opened near 47th Street.

Its beautifully remodeled dining room and exterior bring a welcome touch of color and diversity to this already lively location. The atmosphere at this BYOB restaurant is conducive to free-form conversation, and the menu of “small plates” encourages guests to linger and share. The setting is pleasant, and the staff is friendly and accommodating. These qualities are assets, but they can also be liabilities, and we hope that the place can work out a few kinks and become a success.

My first visit to Aksum was a low-key birthday celebration on a weekday night. My friends brought wine and a bottle of bubbly, and our server promptly supplied us with wineglasses and champagne flutes. From the small-plates menu, the Stuffed Grape Leaves ($5) were good but unsurprising, and the Avocado and Tomato salad ($9) was fresh but not remarkable. On the other hand, the “Angry” Baby Eggplant Salada ($10) was delightfully spicy and perfectly portioned for sharing, and the Grilled Calamari ($9) were outstanding. The Mahi Mahi Pita Wrap, however, didn’t fit the flavor and style of the other offerings. The aoli was tasty, but overall the dish was a little bland and awkward to share. We also ordered the Orzo Arrabiata ($11) and found it used the same sauce as the eggplant. It’s good sauce, but we would have liked more variety. Once we’d secured some pita, which was not as forthcoming as it should have been, we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. The chairs got more comfortable, the people-watching got better, and our server become friendlier; by the time we opened our third bottle of wine, she’d practically joined our party.

Toward the end of the evening, we reached an impasse: we wanted to finish our wine, but there wasn’t anything else we wanted to order. There were a few empty tables, and no-one was waiting for ours, so we decided to stay a while longer. The very friendly server and staff made us feel at home and didn’t rush us. It will be curious to see how well Aksum handles the problem of turnover as their popularity grows; without a liquor license (and no corkage fees) the restaurant becomes a very attractive low-cost place for folks to hang out and enjoy the evening without spending much money. I suppose we should have smoked an after-dinner hookah — perhaps next time.

About a week later, a friend and I tried the weekend brunch. Things were busier – the dining room was full, with families on hand (young children with their parents, and college students with theirs). Choices such as the Egg Mezze Platter ($9) and the UCity Breakfast Wrap ($11) looked great on the menu and on other people’s tables. We ordered Sweet Corn Griddle Cakes with blueberry compote, eggs, and turkey sausage ($13) and the Salmon and Spinach Omelet with delicious tiny twice-fried tomatoes ($12), both of which arrived beautifully presented, but slightly cold.

What we’d experienced as a leisurely pace at night became an bothersome delay at brunch. In the evening, we’d been happy to lounge, but at the start of the day, people have places to go. For lunch, brunch, or dinner, the food is basically good and the decor is unique and comfortable. Although the service can be slow, the staff is very friendly. You might not enjoy Aksum if you are on a schedule, but if you want a casual, cozy meal capped with a leisurely spell at the hookah lounge, this is the place for you. I think in the end Aksum’s success will hinge on how well they can match the tempo of service to the mood of the clientele while continuing to turn a profit. We wish them the best, and thank them again for a very pleasant birthday evening.

– Jen